Aloha peoples from the North Shore, Hawaii. To my luck the waves have been pumping. Expecting some big swell the next few days around here , so that should be great to see the breaks huge. I surfed the biggest waves I’ve ever surfed last week out at Sunset. Talk about getting the adrenalin pumping. Also had some good waves out at Gas Chambers and Off the Wall , Pipe was pumping. Unfortunately the Bodyboarders had a comp at Pipe so they were all over it like flies to a honey pot. I heard they are all going home soon though so perhaps I will get to face the fear and attack the famous perfection…when in Rome….

Glad to be here, fun in the sun, and no drop ins. It is so good to experience this place. Mahalo.

Be Sociable, Share!

•